Monday, 12 September 2016

Makeup Jargon For Beginners: Using Eyeshadow

Hi, everyone!

I recently had a colleague at work approach me enquiring about some of the terminology used when applying eye makeup. This gave me an idea to publish a post describing what these mean along with some of the tools needed to apply.

When glancing at the immaculate glossy eye images on Instagram, it can be quite easy to fall into the trap thinking that's how every eye makeup should look and you can never wear it.  You can achieve looks just as beautiful using just a single shadow and most certainly don't need to have spend years at art school to learn how to hold a brush! Just a little practice is all you need. 

However, for the more ambitious folks, some of you I'm sure, will have heard makeup artists and enthusiasts use the term "transition, fall out and pay off" amongst others, and have been left a little confused as to what these all mean.

Here, I have created a list describing the most common terms used and the tools when applying eye makeup. Now if you're not a complete novice, then this post won't be for you as this is really basic stuff! Hope you enjoy!

Now I would have loved to have also added some eye looks to this post but what with me being a terrible photographer, I would've had to use/steal other peoples photos from their website - Not cool! 

Transition - eyeshadow:

This term is used when applying a light to mid-tone shade to the crease area (commonly known as the socket area or above the lid) and is often used as a starting block to create that gradient effect when creating a smoky eye. It can also add shape and depth to give a false illusion of a socket, and also enhance the eyelid by bringing it forward. This can be extremely helpful for eyelids with little space such as hooded or mono lids.

The best tool to use for your transition shade is a crease brush - Tapered Crease, Fluffy Crease or Blender are some of the other known tools used as well. Always use 2 brushes for this method; 1 for applying the colour, and the other (a clean unused brush) to blend the edges to give a more diffused look.

One of the many ways a smoky eye can be achieved:

Just to give an example: If I applied, say, a light to mid-tone Brown/Beige shade into the crease and a Black shadow onto the lid, I would then add a third shade in-between the two that's darker than the transition shade (perhaps a deeper Brown) but lighter than the lid. I'd then blend the edges using a separate clean brush to create that gradient effect. Of course, you can do this whichever way around suits you.

Unfortunately, shadows are not like paint when it comes to mixing. When you try to blend two colours, a light and a dark, the result can sometimes end up looking a little muddy or patchy! So, by adding this third shade, (or sometimes a fourth if you really want to go dramatic), will help prevent this. It creates the colours to transition giving a multi-tonal effect, so the colours look like they've blended more naturally.

Fallout/Fall Down - eyeshadow:

When specks of eyeshadow fall down onto the face.This can happen whilst applying eyeshadow or can happen several hours after application. Shadows that contain small flecks of glitter are more prone to this than standard shadow. This can  also happen if the brush is overloaded with product.

To help ease the problem, always tap your brush to remove excess shadow before application and apply using a patting motion onto the lid. You may need to use an eye primer first to help grip and prolong wear of the shadow. However some shadows just suck no matter what you do.

If you do discover you have fall out, just wrap some surgery tape around the end of your brush, preferably a thicker stemmed one like a blusher brush and roll it across the area (a bit like a lint roller) to collect the particles.

Tightlining - eyeliner pencil, flat liner, thin liner: 

Applying liner to the upper inner eye rim or both (lower) at the same time. Used either with a pencil or liner brush. This helps to give the illusion that your lashes are thicker. 

A great trick to try if you have smaller lids, mono lids and hooded (little space between lash and crease) is to apply liner to the top inner rim as oppose to above the lash. That way you don't lose any lid space and your shadow colour can still be seen but you're still gaining definition to the eye. You may even discover that that poor performing mascara may suddenly perform better!

Remember, if tightling scares you, it doesn't always have to be that intense that you end up poking your eye out! Just gentle strokes close to the lash will do.

Outer V - eyeshadow:

This is to add definition, deepen the look of the socket (crease) or give shape to the outer-third of the eye which is achieved by using a darker shade. Depending on the shape and the intensity level of the look you wish to create, you can use a pencil brush, a small flat shader, blender, angled shader or even liner.

Define the eye - eyeshadow and liner:

To create even further depth and perhaps a sharper look to the crease area using a deep shade. Apply this darker tone on top of your transition shades using either a small tapered crease, a small flat shader, pencil or dome shadow brush.

Defining the eye can be another term used for eye lining too!

Highlighting - eyeshadow or stick:

A matte or slightly shimmered light coloured shade (usually a natural shade) is used to apply around the inner corner of the eye (tear duct area) to brighten and give that wide awake look (excellent method for tired eyes.) Great for also uplifting the brow when applied below, rendering a more youthful look to the eye. For the tear duct area, I don't light to add shades that are too shimmery, as they can leave that wet looking feel.

A flat shader of various sizes can be used to achieve this look.

Payoff - eyeshadow:

This is a term normally used to describe the depth of pigment in the shade. (How vivid the colour is after application compared to the pan.)

Eyeshadow Pan -eyeshadow:

You've probably heard someone say their shadow has hit pan. It's the pot that the eyeshadow comes in.

Cut Crease - eyeshadow, liner, liquid liners:

A cut crease is similar to defining but gives a much stronger and sharper look using a thinner line. It is applied along the crease but close to the edge of the lid using a thin angled liner brush.

Lifting the eye - eyeshadow:

This is created in various ways using shadow on the outer third of the eye. By angling the brush in a diagonal manner you can achieve a soft wing which will help to lift tired or droopy eyes. If you wish to achieve a more natural look, blend it slightly to soften the edges to give it a more diffused look.

This is another great trip to extend or make the eye appear bigger!

Blownout - eyeshadow:

This is a fairly new one on me so apologies if this is wrong!

Blending method but is done in a much more dramatic way when creating a smoky eye. Done skilfully, it looks awesome!

I hope some of these will help you understand now a little bit more. If you know of any more that I could add to the list, please let me know in the comments section, as we can never stop learning!

                                                                            Toni. xoxo



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